02 . 12 . 24
The worst surf we have ever been in?!
02 . 12 . 24
The worst surf we have ever been in?!
The forecast didn’t fill us with much hope this morning with exposure to a fresh windswell measuring 7.5ft at 7 seconds. Couple this with mid-tide and a gusting 30mph north westerly wind and you have just about the worst forecast for the beach at the bottom of the hill.
When we arrived for first light, all we could see was white water, but we were keen for an invigorating swim about in the wild sea and thought we might just luck into a few waves if we took the bellyboard with us. As is so often the case, once we were in we were surprised at how rideable some of the lumps felt, so we kicked into a few for the thrill of the drop. We got to see the sun rise up over the valley too and there is no better place to welcome in a new day than in the sea with a friend. It’s what Monday Morning Surf Club is all about!
Chris and James both shared our performance bellyboard and wore their DaFin swim fins