September: The Surfer’s Favourite Month

16 . 09 . 17

“The summers passed with each year. I don’t seem to remember them anymore. I remember the fall and the coming of winter.

The water got cold. It was a time of the West swell.”

Jack Barlow, Big Wednesday (1978)

September is a special time of year for surfers in the Northern Hemisphere. It’s a time of colder sand and a warmer ocean, of long-range ground swells, and of dawn surfs that aren’t so early that they don’t count as still being ‘last night’. September by the sea has a distinct fragrance too; a cool and calming smell from the spray of breaking waves being carried on the wind. Line-ups get quieter here in Cornwall, and noticeably busier in southwest France, northern Spain and Portugal, with surfers who are able to follow the sun south through the autumn. All of us at home though, get to reap the rewards of a summer’s worth of sand bar build-up and hurricane swells.

Wherever you’re surfing this September, enjoy. Even if it does feel as though autumn’s barely letting summer put its coat on before being ushered out the door, it’ll be back again at about the same time next year. We’re looking forward to sharing the last of the September waves with our community of wooden surfboard workshoppers in a few weeks time for our Annual Gathering of Makers event, but until then we wish you all clean swells and favourable winds, whichever coast you’re chasing waves on.

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