01 . 04 . 25
Fast hollow waves just off high tide, and perhaps the wrong choice of surfboard shape?!
01 . 04 . 25
Fast hollow waves just off high tide, and perhaps the wrong choice of surfboard shape?!
We got to the beach just after high tide and despite the swell lines, nothing was really breaking until dumping on the shore, with the banks fairly full and the new moon we knew that it was due to push out and there would be something surfable.
James opted to take his 9’6 Pier, it being a new surfboard he had recently shaped, that he was wanting to surf and get used to. Max took out the trusty 5’10 Fetch and sat further inside, catching the waves as they stood up. James had the ability to catch the waves out back early, but upon reaching the sandbar, they jacked up and hollowed out making it tricky to hold the line and get past the section.
All in all it was a huge effort considering the conditions which changed rapidly as the tide receded, watching the footage back it certainly looks overhead and heavy!
And yes the camera needs a clean :-))
See you next week!
All of our sustainable, hollow wooden surfboards are made using wood from local, regenerative woodlands and are intended for a lifetime of waves.