12 . 07 . 15
It’s often been said when trying to describe the sensation of getting barrelled that “time slows down in the tube”. We think that time slows down when you bodysurf also, because it seems to us that if you’re tight for time then a bodysurf is definitely the best way to feel like you’ve made the most out of a small window of free time in your day. There’s no hard evidence behind our belief because it certainly doesn’t take any longer to pull on a wetsuit and run down the beach with a surfboard than it does with fins and a handplane. Maybe it’s because you’re able to sit further inside and take waves that surfers miss or waves that other wave riders pass up, or because the act of constantly swimming and treading water wears you out faster than if you’re sat out back waiting for set waves on a surfboard, but a short bodysurfing session feels far more rewarding than a short surf.